July is Disability Pride Month, a time to celebrate disabled people while continuing the push for equality, accessibility and visibility. Despite making up 16% of the global population, disabled people rarely appear in fashion marketing campaigns. For brands, treading the right line between solidarity and accusations of performative allyship is vital.
Author
- William E. Donald
Associate Professor of Sustainable Careers and Human Resource Management, University of Southampton
Primark's latest initiative is a notable attempt to navigate this challenge. The fashion chain has introduced its first mannequin representing a wheelchair user. Designed with disability advocate Sophie Morgan, the mannequin (named Sophie) now appears in 22 flagship stores internationally.
At first glance, this looks like progress. However, in an industry where inclusivity is often more about appearance than systemic change, it prompts an important question. Is this a genuine step forward?
The mannequin is designed to reflect a manual wheelchair user. Morgan contributed to a year-long design process that included reviewing body dimensions, 3D mock-ups and a custom wheelchair frame strong enough to withstand store conditions.
The launch coincides with the expansion of Primark's adaptive clothing collection , which was launched in January 2025. The collection features magnetic closures, elasticated waistbands and discreet openings for medical access points like feeding tubes or stomas. Many garments are designed specifically for seated wearers - as a wheelchair user, I am only too aware that this is often missing from mainstream clothing ranges.
What sets Primark's effort apart is its emphasis on affordability. Adaptive clothing has been sold mostly through specialist retailers or premium brands . Primark's decision to offer it at a low price point could represent a meaningful shift in making accessible fashion mainstream. And the involvement of disabled advocates and the visible changes across stores suggest a more serious commitment.
In 2014, supermarket Sainsbury's Back To School campaign featured Natty Goleniowska , a seven-year-old girl with Down's syndrome. Then, in 2017, the fashion chain River Island ran a campaign featuring Joseph Hale , an 11-year-old boy also with Down's syndrome. While Sainsbury's campaign was groundbreaking and both were widely praised, they were largely confined to advertising and online platforms.
Primark, by placing its seated mannequin in shop windows and on store floors, brings representation into physical retail spaces. This challenges long-standing visual norms and offers disabled shoppers something that has long been absent - recognition in the places where they live and shop.
What Primark gets right
First, disabled people were included throughout the campaign's development. Morgan's role was not symbolic - her input shaped the final design.
Second, the mannequin is more than a token gesture. It is a durable, mass-produced model intended for multiple locations. This kind of visibility in bricks-and-mortar stores matters. For many disabled people, seeing themselves reflected in major retail environments can be validating and empowering.
Third, the adaptive clothing range includes thoughtful, functional features that are often missing in standard retail offerings. Design details like seated-friendly fits or catheter access offer tangible improvements for dressing with dignity.
Finally, launching the campaign during Disability Pride Month adds relevance. Amid growing scrutiny of superficial inclusion, Primark's approach appears to be carefully considered, as it builds on a campaign that began in January 2025.
But there's still room for improvement across the retail sector. Mannequins cannot solve physical barriers in stores. Many retail spaces still lack step-free access, automatic doors or accessible changing rooms. Until these issues are addressed, the mannequin risks becoming a symbol disconnected from the reality of disabled shoppers.
Second, while Primark's adaptive line is innovative, it remains small. Style variety, trend relevance and extended sizing should be priorities to ensure disabled shoppers are not limited to functional basics.
Third, economic accessibility extends beyond low prices. Disabled people face disproportionate financial pressures . Future efforts could include partnerships with health schemes or grants to improve access further.
And representation should be broader still. Disability comes in many forms, intersecting with race, body size, gender identity and types of mobility aids (including for invisible disabilities). Future campaigns should reflect this diversity. And true inclusion extends to employment practices and customer service. Hiring more disabled staff and creating accessible roles in retail would shift inclusion from visual representation to operational reality.
While there are certainly green shoots of positivity here, it is too early to tell if this will be a gamechanging move by Primark. The answer depends on whether this campaign marks the start of sustained change across the retail sector. The real test lies ahead.
Long-term commitments such as improving store accessibility, expanding representation and inclusive hiring practices are essential. Without these, it might come to be seen as performative allyship that risks damaging not only Primark's brand but also the disabled community and society at large.
Primark's seated mannequin is not a revolution, but it is a powerful symbol. It sends a message that disabled people deserve visibility in public life - not as an afterthought, but as valued participants. To move from intention to transformation, visibility must be matched with access.
Inclusion needs to be embedded into the infrastructure of retail, not just its imagery. All retailers should take a broader view of inclusive practices to ensure clear messaging and commitments across their supply chain, advertising and stores.
William E. Donald does not work for, consult, own shares in or receive funding from any company or organisation that would benefit from this article, and has disclosed no relevant affiliations beyond their academic appointment.
