Social media has done it again - this time reviving a minimalist skincare trend known as the caveman method. Think of it as the paleo diet for your face: no cleansers, no moisturisers, no water. Just your skin, left completely to its own devices.
Author
- Adam Taylor
Professor of Anatomy, Lancaster University
Supporters claim it helps reduce breakouts, arguing that overuse of products is irritating their skin. But while simplifying your routine might have some short-term benefits, going completely product free, and especially water free, can put you at risk of a lesser known condition: dermatitis neglecta.
Dermatitis neglecta was first described in a medical journal in 1995. It's a skin condition that doesn't involve inflammation but rather occurs when skin isn't cleaned adequately over time. It's most commonly seen in people with neurological or psychological conditions, or in people avoiding cleaning surgical wounds , skin sensitivity , or even poor hygiene.
It often shows up on the face , chest and limbs , but can appear anywhere on the body . The hallmark? A pigmented, scaly build-up that looks like cornflakes.
But what's actually building up?
Your skin is constantly renewing itself. As new skin cells form underneath, older ones are pushed up and eventually die due to lack of oxygen from the blood supply beneath.
We shed about 500 million dead skin cells per day - roughly two grams' worth . That's not much, but if you're not washing your face, even this small daily build-up can quickly lead to visible debris and dullness.
This often overlooked layer of built-up skin can sometimes conceal underlying medical conditions, including cancer , that only become apparent once the excess is removed.
Skin cancers are less common in people with darker skin tones but they often have worse outcomes , primarily due to delayed diagnosis, which makes the cancer harder to treat. In such cases, conditions like dermatitis neglecta may further obscure signs of disease, making early detection even more challenging.
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But it's not just dead cells at play. Your skin's natural secretions, sweat and sebum, also contribute to this protective barrier.
Sebum is an oily substance produced by sebaceous glands all over the body. It helps keep moisture in and has antimicrobial properties . The nose is the area with the highest sebum production , which explains its reputation for shininess. Sebum also plays a role in skin pH, helping keep the skin slightly acidic to ward off harmful bacteria.
Sweat, meanwhile, also contains antimicrobial peptides that helps defend against pathogens. But if these secretions can't reach or function properly at the skin's surface - either because they're blocked by build-up or not spread through cleansing - your natural defences may weaken, making it easier for bacteria or fungi to thrive.
Skipping all skincare might sound natural, but it may disrupt these finely balanced systems. If the skin becomes overwhelmed, it can't do its job - leading not just to clogged pores, but potential infection.
Thankfully, dermatitis neglecta is relatively easy to treat. Mild cases clear up with warm soapy water. More stubborn build-up may require gentle cleansing with isopropyl alcohol . In extreme cases, dermatologists may prescribe keratolytics , creams that help break down and remove the thickened outer layers.
Back to basics
Let's get one thing straight: you don't need a ten-step routine. But, as well as keeping the skin clean, a few basic skincare practices go a long way.
First, hydrate. Drinking water can improve skin hydration , especially if your intake has been low .
Next, moisturise. A simple moisturiser with ingredients like hyaluronic acid or glycerin helps lock in moisture and support the skin's natural barrier. You'll often spot hyaluronic acid on product labels: it's known for its ability to bind water to the skin.
High molecular weight hyaluronic acid can help hydrate the surface of the skin and support it's barrier function. But only low molecular weight hyaluronic acid can penetrate into the deeper layers, where it can help improve hydration more comprehensively and help reduce the appearance of fine lines. A blend of high and low molecular weight hyaluronic acid can offer both deep hydration and surface moisture retention.
Humectants like sodium PCA also draw moisture from the air into the skin, helping to keep it soft and supple. This is particularly important for darker skin tones, which are more prone to transepidermal water loss , meaning they can lose moisture more quickly and may need extra hydration support.
Finally, wear sunscreen - every day - no matter your skin tone. While melanin can offer some natural protection against UV damage, it's not enough to prevent skin cancer, premature ageing, or pigmentation issues. Daily use of sunscreen is essential for everyone. UV rays damage collagen, the protein that keeps skin firm. They cause collagen to cross-link , making it stiff and contributing to wrinkles and sagging . Collagen has a half-life of around 15 years , so once it's damaged, your skin takes a long time to recover.
To maintain the skin's young, fresh and healthy appearance collagen and other molecules need to be replaced and allowed to mature. But UV also physically damages the collagen formation and maturation process , making it more difficult for new collagen to form properly, further contributing to the aged appearance of skin. Sunscreen helps prevent this long-term ageing effect.
Cheesy varnish
If you think your skin has never been coated in build-up, think again. In the womb, your sebaceous glands produced a substance called vernix caseosa , Latin for "cheesy varnish". This waxy coating, visible on many newborns, is made of sebum and dead skin. It moisturises , insulates and protects infants during birth - and it's proof that build-up on your skin isn't as unnatural as it might seem.
Going back to basics can feel appealing, especially in a world overflowing with products. But your skin is a complex, hardworking organ that benefits from a little support.
More research is needed to understand how skincare affects different people: factors like biological sex , skin tone , environment and genetics all play a role. But simple steps like drinking water, applying moisturiser, and wearing sunscreen can help your skin function at its best.
So before you ditch everything in your bathroom, remember that "natural" doesn't always mean "better". Your skin evolved to protect you - but it still needs a little help now and then.
Adam Taylor does not work for, consult, own shares in or receive funding from any company or organisation that would benefit from this article, and has disclosed no relevant affiliations beyond their academic appointment.
