"Tara and Red Algae Biopolymer as a Film-Forming Substance for Hair Protection" ACS Omega
To find new ways to shield hair from heat, sunlight and air pollution, researchers in Brazil are turning to vegan-friendly ingredients for shampoos and conditioners. Published in ACS Omega, early tests show that a fruit-algae combination added to haircare products coats strands with a protective film. Although the botanical film makes hair slightly less elastic, it improves shine and makes locks easier to comb compared to hair washed and conditioned with products not containing the biopolymer.
Heated styling tools, dirt in the air and sunlight damage keratin, the primary structural protein in hair, leading to dry, faded and brittle strands. To shield against this damage, some haircare products form a thin polymer film that coats hair strands and chemically bonds with keratin, so the film stays in place until it's time for the next treatment. Existing protective treatments labeled as "natural" usually contain biopolymers extracted from animal wool, feathers, shells and horns, but these are typically offered only in salons. So, Patricia M. B. G. Maia Campos and colleagues wanted to explore an entirely plant-based solution specifically designed for at-home daily use.
The researchers previously developed a skincare gel made from a biopolymer derived from the fruit of a flowering shrub native to Latin America called tara (Caesalpinia spinosa) and red algae (Kappaphycus alvarezii). For the proposed haircare solution, the team added the same biopolymer to shampoo, conditioner and leave-in conditioner.
"We chose tara because the fruit is rich in natural polysaccharides, and red algae because it is a sustainably cultivated source of biopolymers used to form protective films," explains Maia Campos. "Also, based on our previous studies, the combination of tara and red algae creates strong film-forming properties for effective cosmetic formulations."
Campos and her team tested their new haircare formulas with human hair samples prepped in a dilute cleansing solution to remove dirt and residue. Hair samples were then divided into three groups: tresses treated with the three biopolymer-containing products, tresses treated with biopolymer-free products, and untreated controls.
Hair strands treated with biopolymer products were slightly weaker and thicker than the other strands. This led the researchers to conclude that the biopolymer molecules created a durable film along the hair shaft by breaking and replacing some of the natural hydrogen bonds in the hair's keratin structure. The film, says the team, could provide a physical barrier against damaging environmental factors.
The biopolymer film also improved shine, smoothness and combability compared to hair treated with the biopolymer-free products and untreated hair. These qualities were assessed following cosmetic industry-standard tests that measure light reflection (shine), slipperiness (smoothness), and the force needed to comb each hair sample (combability).
Moving forward, the researchers will focus on evaluating the formulation's effectiveness against UV exposure and using imaging techniques to clearly visualize the biopolymer film formed on individual hair fibers.
The authors acknowledge funding from the Brazilian Federal Agency for Support and Evaluation of Graduate Education (Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível), the São Paulo Research Foundation (Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado de São Paulo), and the National Council for Scientific and Technological Development, Institutional Scientific Initiation Scholarship Program (Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico, Programa Institucional de Bolsas de Iniciação Científica).
