Tales From Ice - Year In Antarctica

Brian didn't celebrate his 60th birthday with cake and candles at home. Instead, he stood on top of Law Dome - an ice mountain in Antarctica - surrounded by snow and ice as far as the eye could see.

There were weeks of preparation for the Law Dome weather station maintenance run. Luckily those included planning for all weather conditions. Driving out from Casey station, the team faced 17 hours of near-zero visibility in blizzard conditions. Wind and snow relentlessly pummelled their Hägglunds (ice-terrain vehicles) as they pushed towards their destination.

But day 2 was a different story. With clear skies and good visibility, driving became less challenging. Despite the somewhat nippy -27 °C temperature, the wind was low and they made great progress.

Arriving at Law Dome weather station, they quickly discovered the reason for their trip. The solar panel that charged the battery was almost fully covered in a thick blanket of snow. This prevented the battery from charging and the weather station from operating. Thankfully the weather station's tower was still clear of snow, meaning they wouldn't need to do a full rebuild as they'd feared. It was a reasonably quick job to get the station working.

As the team departed Law Dome summit, they drove head-on towards a sun dog - a rare optical phenomenon with bright spots on either side of a sun halo. 'It was the first one I'd ever seen,' Brian says. 'And I got to see it on my 60th.'

It was a remarkable way to spend a milestone birthday - all part of Brian's role as a technical officer and team leader at Casey station in Antarctica.

Taking the leap

So how did Brian decide to take a role in Antarctica?

After working for 25 years at the Bureau's Melbourne-based training centre and seeing Antarctic expeditioners prepare and return, he wanted to experience it himself. 'It grew to the point it could no longer be ignored,' he says. 'Seeing people get excited each year and then come back with new stories of the experience was always thrilling. I decided that if I was ever going to, then now was the time to throw my hat in the ring.

The human element

Living in Antarctica isn't just about surviving the cold. It's about navigating the relationships of your new colleagues and the dynamics of isolation. 'No one can be ideal all the time,' Brian says. 'You always have to deal with the human element - and that can vary with each person's resilience and mood. The team can help absorb the challenge by looking out for each other.'

At Casey station a shift in dynamics comes with the increase in numbers between seasons. In winter Casey has around 30 residents. In summer it swells to over 100 - with last summer reaching as high as 160. That suddenly makes finding a quiet space a bit more of a challenge. After spending the long winter with your small group of 33, the new expeditioners start to arrive. 'It's like having 80 people suddenly come into your living space,' he says. 'Except they're not the guests - they're the new owners'.

'You look after each other', he said. 'Everyone has their moments, but you band together and keep each other safe.'

Pushing your limits

A common challenge expeditioners face is the long, dark time in winter. It changes from station to station, but for some people the sun might not rise for weeks.

Brian said he didn't struggle with the long polar night. It's the endless daylight that wears on him. 'Not having any night-time feels very strange' he says. Still, he's grown from the experience. 'It pushes you to new limits - which is exactly what I wanted it to do,' he says.

He's also learned what he'd do differently next time. At the top of his list is to bring gloves with better hand warmers. 'Part of your job as a technical officer means doing work outside - and when it's -27 °C your hands get cold faster than you realise', he said. 'Having a way to keep your hands warm while working outside would make it so much better.'

The hardest part of a stint in Antarctica? 'For most people it's leaving your family and friends behind,' Brian says. But the tight-knit nature of the station community helps. 'You start off in an unfamiliar setting with unknown colleagues. But after a while those unknown colleagues become friends, and then some of those friends become your Antarctic family.'

Despite the challenges of Antarctic living, there are some unexpected creature comforts. 'The coffee machine is top-notch, and the station chef makes awesome food', Brian said. 'I've actually become more of a coffee guy than I'd have ever expected, since it's much better than what I make at home.'

Coming home

Only a short few weeks away from returning home, Brian reflects on his experience and what he'll bring back to normal life.

Antarctica has a lot of big-ticket attractions - wildlife, the aurora australis, vast, icy landscapes and awe-inspiring weather. But one of Brian's greatest takeaways is smaller-ticket - 'Having the chance to enjoy the subtle things. You live in a white world where the subtle colours stand out'.

He's adjusted to a different kind of life that allows for a greater appreciation of the world around him. He talks of 'Looking out into the ocean and watching the light play across icebergs - the small colours in the sky, the way light reflects off rocks and snow'.

'It's just amazing,' he said 'the subtle things are big. I really want to take that sensation home with me. I want to keep appreciating the things that I always overlook.'

The Bureau in Antarctica

As part the Bureau's work in Antarctica, our technical officers and meteorologists support the scientific work of the Australian Antarctic Program. They also contribute to weather, marine and space information for Australia.