Christmas Potatoes: Mash vs Roast

As the festive season approaches, the debate of Mash vs Roast potatoes takes centre stage in the culinary conversations of Christmas dinner enthusiasts. The University of Warwick weighs in on this perennial debate, delving into the historical significance of the potato and offering an expert opinion from food historian and professor Rebecca Earle.

The humble potato, a staple on many holiday dinner tables, has a rich history intertwined with cultural significance and culinary evolution. Professor Rebecca Earle, a food historian at the University of Warwick, sheds light on the intriguing history of this versatile tuber.

A 2019 YouGov poll backed by Potato producer, Branston, found that 92% of people had roast potatoes with their Christmas dinner, 94% opted for either roast or mash - whilst 40% were doubling up with both!

Professor Rebecca Earle said: "Today, potatoes are so familiar that it is hard to imagine a Christmas dinner, or a week, without them. In fact, potatoes were totally unknown in Europe before the 16th century, when Spaniards returning from Latin America introduced them to our dinner tables, alongside turkeys, chocolate, and other future staples of the Christmas season.

"In the following centuries, potatoes spread around the world. Recipes for roast and mashed potatoes appear in British cookbooks from the 17th century; they were described as 'very grateful to the Stomach'. Mashed potatoes were often mixed with sugar and other sweets, to be baked into an elaborate tart."

Which one is more authentic? Professor Earle commented that chasing after authenticity is a poor way to approach the holidays. "Neither mashed nor roast potatoes was a staple of the British holiday table before the 19th century, and even then Christmas menus were characterised more by flexibility than rigidity.

"People in the past didn't feel obliged to follow a "traditional" menu, and neither should we. The lesson from history is: eat whatever you fancy. The purpose of Christmas foods is to promote togetherness, not strife."

The University of Warwick invites food enthusiasts, historians, and families alike to consider the historical roots and cultural significance of the beloved potato during the holiday season. While debates over mash vs roast potatoes may persist, the spirit of Christmas ultimately lies in coming together, sharing meals, and cherishing time with loved ones.

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